Fabric Spreading Methods in Garment Manufacturing: A Complete Guide

Methods of Fabric Spreading

Fabric spreading is one of the most important steps in garment manufacturing. It directly affects fabric utilization, cutting accuracy, and overall production efficiency. Fabric spreading means laying fabric in multiple layers on a cutting table according to the marker length and required number of plies. The main purposes of fabric spreading is to create a smooth, even, and properly aligned lay so patterns can be cut accurately. Generally fabrics are supplied in packages in garments factories. Fabric lays are made by spreading the fabric from the packages.

There are mainly two methods used for making lays of fabric by spreading fabrics, such as:

1. Manual method
2. Mechanical method

1) Manual method:

In this method, fabric spreading can be done in three ways which are discussed here:

1. Fully manual spreading: As per the length and width of the fabric, two workers spread the fabric roll manually from two sides of the table. Sometimes this job is done by entering iron or wooden rod through the paper tube placed at the center of the fabric roll.
2. Manual spreading with the help of hook: In this case, the top of the table which is used for fabric spreading, is set at 10 degree angle with the perpendicular. Then one selvedge of the fabric is hooked with the 15 cm length hook placed on the top of the table and the other end (selvedge) of the fabric remains hanging due to its own weight. The hooks are placed in the same row at a distance of 20 to 25 cm from each other. For check matching laying of fabrics by, this method is very much suitable. The fabric tension along the width in fabric lays, due to the procedural reason, is uniform and the tension along the length depends on the workers’ skill. After spreading the fabric, the top of the table is set again parallel to the floor. Then the hooks are removed and the marker is placed on the fabric lay.
3. With the help of manual spreading track: There is spreading track on the one end of the spreading table in which the fabric roll is set. Then the track is manually driven from one end to the other end of the table and simultaneously the fabric is unwound from the roll kept in the track and the spreading of fabric continues as per the length and width of the marker. For guiding the journey of the spreading track easy and in certain track, generally it is done by placing two rail lines and wheels on them at the two sides of the spreading table top. Sometimes the spreading track is placed at one end of the table and two workers holding the two selvedges of the fabric from the two sides of the table, spread the fabrics drawing from one end of the table to the other.

None of the three methods of manually spreading of fabrics discussed above, are able to fulfill the three basic requirements of fabric laying.

2) Mechanical method:

The machines which are used for fabric spreading are of two types, such as:

a) Semi-automatic:

The spreading machine is run on the specific path with the help of motor on two rails at the two sides on the top of the table. The fabric roll is placed at the specific place in the machine. The spreading machine makes the fabric lay on the table by spreading of the fabric moving from the one end of the table to the other with the help of electrical and mechanical power. The advantages of semi-automatic machine are listed below:

1. There is system for counting the fabric piles automatically.
2. There is system for cutting the fabric piles automatically.
3. There is system for holding the ends of the fabrics automatically after cutting of the fabric piles.
4. There is inspection light for marking the fabric faults during spreading of fabrics.
5. There is system for controlling of fabric tensions.
6. There is leveling blade for making the fabric top flat and straight.
7. There is photo electric guide for making the selvedge alignment.
8. There is turn table for turning the fabric roll.
9. Fabric is unwound from the fabric roll with positive speed and it is adjusted with the speed of the fabric spreading machine speed.
10. There is platform with the spreading head for sitting of the operator.
11. Fabric of up to three (3) meter width can be spread and it can carry weight from 80 to 675 kgs.
12. It can spread up to 100 meters of fabric per minute.
13. Up to 25 cm of height lay can be made.
14. When the spreading head goes from one end to the other without spreading of fabrics (dead heading), then it can run comparatively at faster speed.

b) Full automatic:

The full automatic machine is the improved version of the semi-automatic machine. All the advantages available in semi-automatic spreading machine are present here, moreover, some additional advantages are available in the full automatic machine, because these machines are run by robot and micro processor controlling. The additional advantages available in the full automatic spreading machine are listed below:

1. The machine can be pre-set for spreading of any specific number of piles. After spreading of specific number of piles, the machine will be stopped automatically and will give signal.
2. During the running of fabric spreading with robotic system, if the fabric roll is finished, the spreading head automatically comes to the housing end and leaving the blank paper tube of fabric roll to the specified place and placing the new fabric roll in the spreading head, restarts the spreading of the fabric, allowing the required splice, from the place where the fabric of the previous roll was finished.
3. There is sensor placed at the spreading head. Previously marked fabric defects are identified by sensor and the spreading head stands instantly and cut the fabric away itself with the end cutter knife along the width of the fabric at the defective place. Then the spreading head turning back to some extent, restart spreading of fabric from the nearest splice mark.
4. Almost all kinds of fabrics can be spread with this machine and it can make all types of fabric lay.

If the fabric lay is made by mechanical method, almost all types of requirements can be full filled, also it takes less time to spreading and, labor cost is also minimum. But the price of fully automatic spreading machine is high, so the initial investment is high.

Conclusion

Fabric spreading is the unsung hero of garment manufacturing. It may look like a simple cutting-room activity, but what this really means is control. By choosing the right fabric spreading methods and following best practices, garment manufacturers can reduce wastage, improve productivity, and deliver high-quality apparel.

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