Introduction:
Yarn count and machine gauge are two important factors that affect the properties of a knitted fabric. The relationship between yarn count & machine gauge is indirect. In general, finer yarns are knit on higher gauge machines, and coarser yarns are knit on lower gauge machines. This is because the spacing between needles on a higher gauge machine is smaller, allowing for finer loops to be formed. Similarly, the thicker yarns require larger spaces between needles to accommodate their bulk.
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter also depends on several factors such as yarn count, fiber type, yarn twist, yarn finishing, etc. The general practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in Bangladesh are discussed in the following. Firstly we have to know what is yarn count is!
Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical expression, which indicates the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn. It also indicates the relationship between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. Relation Between Yarn Count and Machine Gauge is very important, especially for a textile student as well as a professional.
To become successful textile personnel you must have out-and-out knowledge on yarn count and machine Gauge. This is one of the basics that one might possess to survive in the textile industry. I hope at the end of this article, you will have a clear concept of this.
Machine Gauge:
Machine gauge refers to the number of needles per inch or centimeter on a knitting machine. The gauge determines the spacing of the loops and therefore the thickness and density of the resulting fabric. The higher the machine gauge, the finer the fabric.
Relation Between Yarn Count and Machine Gauge
|
Yarn Count
|
Machine Gauge
|
|
16
|
18
|
|
18
|
20
|
|
20
|
20
|
|
20
|
24
|
|
24
|
22
|
|
24
|
24
|
|
26
|
20
|
|
26
|
22
|
|
26
|
24
|
|
26
|
28
|
|
28
|
22
|
|
28
|
25
|
|
28
|
28
|
|
30
|
22
|
|
30
|
24
|
|
30
|
28
|
|
30
|
34
|
|
34
|
28
|
|
34
|
28
|
The above values may differ because it is the results of research work. There is a relation between yarn in tex and machine gauge is given by an equation,
For single-jersey, G = √(1650 / Tex) and
For double-jersey, G = √(1400 / Tex)
Where G is measured in needles per cm.
You may like also: Relation Between Yarn Count and Fabric GSM
The yarn count to be used on a circular knitting machine depends largely on the pitch, and thus on the machine gauge. For any given machine gauge it can lie within a larger range, because on the same machine different yarn count can be used, depending on the knitted structure, the desired optics (fabric appearance), and the fabric properties.
Author of this Article: Raju Tex Knitting Technologist, B.J.Group, Mawna, Gazipur Chittagong Textile Engineering College Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ERZRAZU