Selection of Yarn Count for Various GSM for Different Fabrics

The count is a numerical value, which expresses the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also indicates the relationship between length and weight(the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. In this article, we will know about the selection of yarn count for various GSM for different fabrics.

Types of Yarn Count: There are two types of yarn counts these are:

1. Indirect system
2. Direct system

1. Indirect Count System:
The count of yarn expresses the no. of length per unit in one weight unit. Higher the count, the finer the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen, etc.

2. Direct Count System:
The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Higher the count, the coarser the yarn. This system is generally used for synthetic fiber, jute, silk, etc.

Selection of Yarn Count for Various GSM for Different Fabrics

GSM:
‘GSM’ means ‘Gram per square meter’ that is the weight of fabric in gram per one square meter. By this, we can compare the fabrics in the unit area which is heavier and which is lighter.

Selection of Yarn Count for Various GSM for Different Fabrics:

 Fabrics/ GSM Plain or Single-jersey Pique 1×1 Rib Lycra 1×1 Rib Lycra 2×2 Rib Interlock 100 36.12 47.66 42.27 47.22 45.82 59.96 120 33.3 44.32 39.81 44.84 43.66 55.84 140 30.48 40.98 37.35 42.46 41.5 51.72 160 27.66 37.64 34.89 40.08 39.34 47.6 180 24.84 34.3 32.43 37.7 37.18 43.48 200 22.02 30.96 29.97 35.32 35.02 39.36 220 19.2 27.62 27.51 32.94 32.86 35.24 240 16.38 24.28 25.05 30.56 30.7 31.12

Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation:

……………………………………..1
GSM ∞ ……………………………..……………………
…………….Yarn count (Ne) X Stitch length

[When yarn count and stitch length both are variables]

………………………………………….K
Or, GSM = ………………………….…………………….          [Where K is a constant]
…………………Yarn count (Ne) X Stitch length

Or, Yarn count (Ne) X Stitch length X GSM = K

……………………………………………K
Or, Stitch length = …………………………………….
……………………………Yarn count (Ne) X GSM

Constant ‘K’ which can be derived as follows:

 Fabrics Constant K values Single-jersey or Plain 12068.509 Double Lacoste 14855.2 1×1 Rib 16431.497 2×1 Rib 19005.333 Interlock 24013.8

These values may get up and down. It may be changed. For getting more accurate results it needs more data from different industries.

```Author of this Article:
Raju Tex
Knitting Technologist,
B.J.Group, Mawna, Gazipur
Chittagong Textile Engineering College